How to choose a good summer wine: Keep it light, keep it cheap


We are in the height of a somewhat late-arriving summer here in the Pacific Northwest, a time when we hope to spend more time outside than in. Having plenty of wine on hand for long summer days and warm evenings makes life in our corner of the world just that much more enjoyable.


We are in the height of a somewhat late-arriving summer here in the Pacific Northwest, a time when we hope to spend more time outside than in. Having plenty of wine on hand for long summer days and warm evenings makes life in our corner of the world just that much more enjoyable.

Selecting summer wines is not too difficult, as they basically need to live up to at least one of two criteria: inexpensive and easy to drink. Whites and rosés work well for light summer fare such as salads and grilled seafoods, while fruit-driven reds pair nicely with grilled and smoked meats. Sparkling wine can make any occasion a celebration, and it pairs beautifully with a wide array of dishes.

Here are some Northwest wines to keep handy through Labor Day.

Covey Run Winery 2008 Fume Blanc, Columbia Valley, $9: Winemaker Kate Michaud is responsible for some of the largest lots of wine in the Northwest, and her attention to detail shows with this absolutely stunning Sauvignon Blanc. This unleashes classic aromas of gooseberry, lychee and honeysuckle with enjoyable notes of wheat grass. Succulent flavors of orange, grapefruit and lemon make this tasty and refreshing with a high-acid, low-oak profile that marries the fruit and the herbaceous quality of the variety while keeping it nearly bone dry.


Ste. Chapelle 2008 Late Harvest Riesling, Snake River Valley, $10: Chuck Devlin stays true to this classic variety with apple, pear, apricot and honeysuckle tones. The acid balance gives the impression of eating sweet apple pie and lemon chiffon pie. Devlin points out that dessert wines are intended to be your dessert, so make sure the dish you are pairing for dessert is less sweet than the wine.


Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Gewürztraminer, Willamette Valley, $18: If you smell grapefruit, then you’re likely on the trail of Gewürztraminer, and such is the harbinger of this delightful bottling. It zeroes in on lightly sugared yellow grapefruit and succulent gooseberry and orange acidity for complexity and crispness, and sweetness — just 0.6 percent — isn’t an issue.


Kestrel Vintners 2009 Falcon Series Rosé, Yakima Valley, $12: A wide-ranging blend of Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo looks lovely and comes off a bit shy in the nose. When it comes to the drink, it’s easy to like with a fuller expression of plums, Hermiston watermelon, huckleberry and dried strawberry. And at less than 1 percent residual sugar, it’s not too clingy.


Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Extra Dry, Columbia Valley, $12: The name is a bit of a misnomer since this is the sweetest offering (2.3 percent residual sugar) from the Northwest’s largest sparkling wine house. Think of aromas of spiced apple, lemon custard and linen that’s fresh out the dryer. Flavors of Fuji apple, pineapple, cantaloupe and a slice of Rainier cherry, ushered to the palate by great fizz, make this exceedingly quaffable.


Pine & Post 2007 Merlot, Washington, $8: It’s mostly Merlot (75 percent) with Cabernet Franc (14 percent), Lemberger (4 percent), Syrah (4 percent) and Sangiovese in tow, and very mellow. There’s delicious boysenberry, raspberry and black cherry tones throughout in a straightforward fashion.


Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $13: It’s rare to find Syrah such as this so inexpensive. Whiffs of dusty chocolate, black cherry, Jolly Rancher grape candy and tobacco leaf. There’s enjoyable elegance on the palate with boysenberry and marionberry flavors and acidity as oak influence is pushed aside. Consider serving with a marinated flank steak featuring thyme.


Magnificent Wine Co. 2007 House Red, Columbia Valley, $13: This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40 percent), Merlot (40 percent) and Syrah (12 percent) with drops of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot. The result is an easy-going, drink-now bottle of boysenberry milkshake with chocolate-covered cherries and juicy cranberries and pomegranate in the finish.



Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman are the editors of Wine Press Northwest.